Day 21 – 8/07 Getting back

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I went to bed a bit earlier last night. Probably fallen asleep at 21.30. Woke up at 1.30 and kind of was awake till 5.00 when the alarm went off. Shower, packing last bits and preparing all the gear for easier transitions between trains and the ferry. Was out of the hotel at 5.25. 200 meters ride to train station and waiting for the back journey to start.

First train, nearly level between train and the platform, no nasty steps, little carriage next to the bike, just another cyclist there. Had a little nap between Poitiers and Paris.

Then it was the always unique experience of cycling between train stations in Paris. This time it was between Gare Montparnasse and Gare Saint-Lazare.

Apart from one hairy moment when I went kind of London style to turn left and I was in-between the bikers, gendarmerie and loads of cars. Managed somehow to get to the right side of the road and then I followed the cyclists. It was 8.30 so it was busy. Nice weather though for cycling. About 15°C. Maybe 30 minutes ride through the Place de la Concorde this time. On the way in it was ride through the Louvre.

The first train wasn’t too busy at all.

Now on the second train to Caen. Loads of kids starting the holidays. Proper busy. No empty seats on the train. Loads of different groups, kind of scout like, let the summer holidays start in France. It was always my experience here. Busy trains, busy campsites and so on. This time, maybe I got a bit wetter than usual, but the whole experience was rather relaxing. Pretty much no worries at all about the camping. Apart from Hossegor but that was my fault. I should have researched better those camping places there. Still it was only 10km extra to a great campsite.

Have to remember: first Friday of July holiday madness starts here.

Because of the teaching I was never able to come here earlier. Great. Even though I had to ask my colleagues to cover last 2 sessions and spent couple of days going through blogs and assessments, it was worth it.

Next getting to the ferry.

So the second part of the trip today was very straightforward. Got to the path by the canal in Caen. Stopped to get a sandwich and some water in Lidl. Then found nice spot with benches and tables in the shade and enjoyed the lunch. Then to the ferry. The customs were open so I got through. Had a coffee and another coffee waiting for the people to let us through to the next point. There standing for about 1 hour but in the shady motorbike/cycle kind of shed. Then onto the ferry. Had my fish and chips. Now loads of time to kill till we arrive in Portsmouth.

In the port waiting for the ferry met couple of cyclists that were coming from a short trip around France. About 5 days. We got chatting a bit and then after the crossing I cycled with them to the station and then we came together on the train. They were from Liphook so shorter trip for them. I didn’t realise how much and how many people are out at night and totally out of it.

I had a ticket to Waterloo and then ride to Paddington and finally catching the quick train from there to Southall. As I was checking the route of the train I noticed that the train was going through Surbiton. I got out and cycled back home. Extra few kilometres of night cycling but I was home one hour earlier. All unpacked, stuff airing. Tomorrow big washing day.

And this is the end of this adventure. Tired, feel it now. But would jump on the bike to do it again

Day 20 7/07

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Last day of cycling today. Tomorrow getting back home.

Woke up at 7.30. Sun was up and it was getting rather warm. Quick shower and then packing of the gear. Fortunately there was no condensation on the tent so all nice and dry went into paniers.

Had my coffee with the rest of the baguette from last night and then 1 croissant.

Ready for the road I set off around 9.30. first I was going to have a short ride but as the day progressed I went for more and more.

First part through vineyards to St-Sulpice-en-Pommiers and then to St-Brice was very hard. Loads of steep uphills and didn’t seem like there were too many downhills. It was the best part of the 20km.

Then I took the D671 direction to Créon and went further to Salleboeuf and to St-Sulpice-et-Cameyrac. Then to Ambarés-et-Lagrave. There I thought the navigation will be simple to get through the bridge and get back to Libourne. I got bitten there by the sun and over hitting phone. So I turned around and went back where I came from and followed the road to Libourne. Here found the hotel okay but the reception is closed. Opens at 16.00. Few minutes of wait so catching up on the blog.

The hotel is really good. Very close to the station so just a short ride tomorrow morning. Had a burger and chips tonight. I was coming to my mind every day so finally I got one today. It is a scorcher out there today. There is an air-conditioner in the room so enjoying a bit of civilization. Glad I will be going through Paris relatively early tomorrow. Watching Poirot in French. Not getting much but it is fun.

Day 19 – 6/07

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Getting closer to the end of the trip.

Today I woke up at 7.00. The sun was out and hitting the tent. I had a shower, prepared a coffee and had some fruit and a tomato for breakfast. Then when I was getting ready for the ride the man with croissant came so I had a croissant and a pain au chocolat with the coffee.

Set off early as it was going to be hot in the afternoon. I was on the road just after 8.30.

Just around the camping there was a cycling path along the canal. The path was tarmac but very uneven. I was going through and hoping that it will improve at some point. It didn’t. Yesterday I had a simple path that was just well looked after. Kind of pressed sand and cement or something like this. Like those in Richmond or Bushy park. Today different story.  It made me think as well why these canals have a path next to them. I thought that maybe they used horses to pull barges along the canal. And it is true. Before the engine it was a horse, donkey, mule or even cattle that pulled barges along the waterways.

There were a lot of cyclists going both ways with panniers. It means that the route is rather popular.

After 20 km of a boneshaker i decided to rejoin the road. Found a nice route to Damazan. Farm after farm. There was wheat, corn, large sunflowers small sunflowers, vineyards, walnut trees and something that I didn’t know, hazelnut trees. Loads of nurseries.

From Damazan I took the country road through St-Léon to Casteljaloux. There was a bit of work on this one but after the canal experience it was a joy. In Casteljaloux I decided to go onto the main road to get to Grignols. Had my first coffee and a coke in Damazan.

In Grignols I took the route through Mitton and Aillas. There was a big uphill just there. Maybe 3 km. Then it was pretty much downhill to La Réole.

Got back to the campsite at 14.30, so before the hit of the afternoon after a quick shower I went to do some shopping and then popped in to the old town. It was rather nice walking through the town in the shade of those old buildings.

Back to the camp. Another shower. Washing. Supper. Now chill.

Day 18 – 5/07

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Today it was a transition day for me. Riding from sweet potato and corn country back to vineyards. Getting closer to the departure point of the trip.

Woke up at 7.20. Quick shower, tent was pretty dry so I could start packing very early. Took my time. Slowly, enjoying the sunny morning.

I was out of the campsite at 9.20. I knew that the first bit of the route will be tricky on busy road. To my surprise I had a massive hard shoulder to myself. It was a proper cycle paths along the road. I got really quickly to Mont-de-Marsan and from there I took the route to Roquefort. The first 10 kilometres on the D932 were a bit scary. Loads of traffic to get to the motorway. After the 10km it was really nice to cycle on that road. Very little traffic and beautiful scenery of the Lands. Before Roquefort I took the wrong turn and cycled passing by the town without entering it. Shame but, with the kilometres I was going to have ahead I didn’t dare to go back.

Google maps was sending me all over the place. So I stuck with my map and went ahead. After passing through Captieux I decided to take the N524. Could have been another busy stretch but just a few moments in the road I found a cycle path to Bazas. Google didn’t even know that it was there. I checked couple of times and on Google maps I was in the middle of nowhere.

By the time I got to Bazas I had already 97km done. My destination was La Rèole. Again Google was sending me around the blocks. Again with the maps I found nice straight route from Bazas to La Rèole.

Again on this route I realised how much I enjoy going up and down the hills. The first 97km apart from a short steeper moment just on the outskirts of St-Sever was pretty much flat. Well. It was going up very slightly and I had a head wind as well. My legs couldn’t decide what to do so I was between gears all the time. Don’t want to kill my legs by making them push too hard or just kill them with number of strokes per minute.

Out of Bazas I was a happy bunny. Going up the hill was slow and the sun was relentless but I got to the top and then for the first time today I had a moment of freewheeling. I could stand on pedals and my bottom was very grateful for the moment of respite. Then there was the second uphill to  Auros. Good 2-3km kilometres of ride up and up. In Auros I even took the picture of the name of the town to remind myself of the road in the future.

From there it was a nice up and down road to La Rèole. Found the campsite, washed my fear as the very strong sun was out. Set up the tent and I was up to do some shopping. As I went into the town I realised how beautiful it is. Tiny old roads with old houses. Proper medieval place. Will have to read up a bit tonight about the history of the place.

Sausages and salad for supper. By the way, my legs were black from the road today. I had to shampoo them twice to get rid of the muck.

Day 17 – 4/07

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Woke up at 4.30 this morning and couldn’t get back to sleep. So at 6.00 as the tent was pretty dry I went to the shower and when I came back the first drops were falling. Quickly moved the whole camp to the area with a roof and then calmly and slowly packed everything. The rain stopped so I had time to prepare a coffee as well.

Diet of fruit and cheese this morning. The leftovers. Had couple of peaches and couple of tomatoes and the remaining cheese.

Have planned the route across the country. So I knew there will be hills. And I had 5, 6, 7 or 8 of them today. All 7% and over.

Left the campsite in Lourdes at 8.15. it was quite chilly and there were signs of rain till kilometer 50. In some places it looked like it was raining a few moments ago. The first hill was to Limendous, then the one to Bernadets, then the one to Thèze and there were a few more but I stopped counting them.

At Thèze the sun came out from time to time and it was a bit warmer on the road.

The D944 turned out to be a great road. On the map it looks boring and straightforward but there were a few surprises with beautiful villages and up and down hill challenges.

Got to St-Sever by 13.30 only to be notified by a member of staff that the office was opening at 16.00. Okay, let’s do the shopping and then I might get to the shower and do the washing as well. If I can get inside the camp.

Went to Intermarche and back, the office was open. The very nice lady gave me even the power adapter so I can charge everything on my pitch. No extra cost. The kids still at the school so camps are relatively empty. Saying that last night in Lourdes it got pretty busy. And here now there are more and more people arriving.

Got route planned for tomorrow. Too much cycling on the busy roads but the one I am looking at runs parallel to the motorway so can be decent. Will see. Pork chop, beetroot and avocado salad for supper.

Overcast here but no signs of rain yet. It looks like it might be dry tomorrow morning as well.

Day 16 – 3/07

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Another dry night. Bats were here last night. Clicking and whistling. Love watching them fly. The whole spectacle last a few minutes only.

Woke up at around 7.00 this morning. Quick shower, then breakfast. Got ready for the road and first went to the Carrefour to top up groceries for tonight and tomorrow morning. Trip back to the campsite and then I went into the hills.

At first there was a steeper hill, then when I got into the mountains I hit a very steady and pleasant uphill that lasted for good few kilometres. There were loads of cyclists on the road that I have chosen for this morning.

And suddenly there was a cycling race on the rout coming from the opposite direction. Some of the guys were really going fast on the downhill. I had couple of mates the few first kilometres and we had to stop to let the race through. There were motorbikes, cars, security cars, loads of people involved directing the traffic as the road for the race wasn’t closet. There was a huge amount of competitors in the race. I saw a number 1632.

At some point when the views became absolutely amazing I lost my mates as I stopped to take some photos. Stopped a few times because the scenery was breathtaking. Especially from the top of the mountain. I believe it was about 700 meters above the sea level.

Then in Neuilh I saw on the map that there was a shortcut to Pouzac. Incredible downhill on the country road. I don’t know what could go up that. I lost probably half of my brake pads trying to stay on the bike. At some point I was thinking of walking the bike downhill. Thankfully it was only a few hundred metres and then I hit a proper road.

In Pouzac I thought of getting a coffee but couldn’t find any tabac open. But there was another town just down the road Bagnères-de-Bigorre. There was a tabac there so I had my usual coffee and a coke. Then set off for Tarbes. Very quick ride on the D8. Went to the town centre, everything very modern.

From there it was getting back to Lourdes. Went with Google maps at first but then Google was sending me onto the very busy N11. I decided to go inland again. Beautiful little villages at foothills of the Pyrenees. Had couple of steep uphills there and the last bit of the road to Lourdes was like gruyère. Somehow I didn’t break anything on the bike or myself.

Back to the campsite really early today. I had the washing done by 15.15. Now chilling out. Ravioli for supper today.

Tomorrow start heading north for the last few days of the trip. There was a shower and some thunderstorms this morning on the forecast but now it has cleared. Hopefully it will stay dry.

There are a few clouds in the sky so it is a bit cooler today.

So the rain came at 17.30. It is 21.00 and no signs of it letting go. It is just relentless.

Day 15 – 2/07

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Set up the alarm for 7.00 this morning. Though that if I am going into the Pyrenees I might need a bit more of time on the road.

Quick shower breakfast, trying to dry the tent as much as I could. Charged the phone and the GPS before leaving. I think I was out on the road at 9.10.

A bit gingerly at first. Trying still the bottom bracket. All good.

First 15km it was a good amount of going up and then twisty and turny roads on the descent. It was till I arrived in Mourenx.

From Mourenx, through Pau, the route was just a slow slope up. Not steep at all, but constant up. Only about 5km from Lourdes that there were a few up and down the hill.

To Soumoulou i had the Pyrenees on the right hand side getting slowly closer and closer. Then after Soumoulou I turned towards the mountains.

As I was getting closer and could see the majestic look of the Pyrenees I had a few moments of goosebumps.

Arrived at the campsite at 14.30. The office was closed so I spent some time chatting with a fellow cyclist. Irish guy that lived pretty much all over the world. Worked as a maths teacher in the UK, then decided to become a priest, then that didn’t work so he spent some time working as a carer. Very similar live to mine.

He started his trip in Roscoff. It took him 11 days to get to Lourdes.

On the road there was no respite from the sun. Just a few minutes far in between that there was a little cloud. In Lourdes it is scorching hot. Had couple of showers already. Will have another one before the bed.

Went to the sanctuary on my way to the supermarket. Loads of people around the town. Tomorrow shop open in the morning so I got stuff for tonight and will top up tomorrow.

Lourdes town centre very hilly and very confusing for the traffic. Loads of single direction roads, but somehow it worked. Had to have the phone in my hand as in the pouch it was overheating in couple of minutes.

Got back. Quick shower, prepared the supper and now chilling out in the sunny shade.

Day 14 – 1/07

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The day started excellent. It was dry, sun was out. Had a quick shower and off to the shop for the croissant and the pain au chocolat. Coffee, packing and charging the mobile and the GPS for the day.

Set off and ohh noooo. The bottom bracket finally decided to play up properly. Went very slowly first 10km. Trying to see if it would sort itself out like before. But this time it was serious and I could feel the movement in the pedals. Then the horrible noise started. Got to Tosse and after a turn stopped for the reality check.

Looking for the closest bike shop near me. It was at about 100 meters from where I was standing. The guys in the shop very keen to help. The mechanic tightened up the pedal cranks. He thought that would be it. Went out and noooo.  The cracking noise was still there. Went back to the shop and somehow managed to convince the mechanic that the bike is new and probably just needs tightened the bottom bracket. Okay. 10 minutes or so later and happily spent 10€ I went on the bike again. Nice and smooth. Went back to the shop thanked the guys again and again. A bit gingerly at first I started stepping up on the pedals. All good. Had a bit of a uphill that tested my legs and the bike. All okay still. At km 70 there was a stinker of the uphill. All good. I think I managed to save the bottom bracket.

In the other hand I started moving towards the Pyrenees. Maybe 30km into the route there was considerable change in the air. Then kiwi farms started. Then I saw small hills. Then I saw big mountains. Different herbs loads of oak trees. Amazing adventure. And with the bike that was running healthy. Kind of booked a camping in Navarrenx. Very nice route. Quick ride. I was setting up the camp at 15.30 after checking in at the office. Free WiFi, beautiful pitch, toilets with toilet paper. Luxury and all this for 14€. Get in.

Navarrenx – a beautiful village, medieval fortification. So pleased I decided to stay here for the night.

Tomorrow more hills, can be quite steep. Will see. Washing done, sun drying my stuff. Shopping done.

I get so lucky.

Day 13 – 30/06

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The rain started at 21.00 last night and hasn’t stopped yet. It was on and off all day.

Woke up at 8.00. everything around wet and raining. I had to do some assessments for the college so started straight away and at 9.00 when the rain stopped for a moment I went to get a croissant from the shop and then went to the reception and continued with work. The nice lady from the reception gave me the internet pass free so I had a way of going through the Word documents. The mobile reception here is pretty bad so it was loads of waiting for the blog to open and the assessment files in the tent.

Finished work at about 12.00. Then started planning the route for tomorrow. And finally started thinking of the return route back to UK.

I spent couple of hours searching different towns and connection either to Caen or Calais. There are less and less trains here that will take the unfolded bike on. Finally got one that would.

So booked the train. Checked for the hotel for last night. It is early start for me so better to be close to the station.

At about 16.00 the rain stopped and the sky was pretty blue. Could se clouds on the horizon. Dried a bit of the washing and around 17.00 decided to go to visit the ocean. Quite a dramatic skies. Stayed there for a moment and decided to go back. As I started cycling back the rain started again. It was a short, light shower. It was pretty much gone when I got to the campsite.

Drying things again. Quick shower. Supper and the rain came back. Hopefully this was the last bit of it. It is supposed to be nice and sunny day tomorrow. And I have to finish drying my stuff.

On the other hand my old flip-flops have become a bit of a liability. It was more like skating than walking on wet floors. I have been looking for a pair for a few days now and lo and behold I found a new pair in the little shop by the camp. The old ones have been decommissioned now after 12 years of faithful service.

Day 12 – 29/06

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Woke up at 8.00 this morning. Quick shower so the towel would have a chance to dry a bit. Then packing for the trip.

Left the tent to dry for 1 hour as I was going through the other bits. Mattress and sleeping bag and so on.

At 9.00 the baguette was ready and the croissant as well. As I set up for the breakfast the man with a big saw came and started pruning the bushes around me. Only a few days left before the high season starts here. Another couple of days and the roads will be crazy with motorhomes.

Managed to get out of the camp by 10.15. was going to try the cycle paths today as well. The first one to start with took me around the field. So I turned around and went onto the roads. Through the day I managed to find quite a few cycling paths along the main road and then when the paths were going through the town or a village I was taking the road straight through.

I checked on the Google maps that there were many campsites around Hossegor so I was heading there.

The weather was very pleasant for cycling. Not too hot. A bit of a breeze that was a bit stronger for moments but nothing to stop the joyful experience of cycling.

Kilometers were passing and I thought that with a good luck l might be able to set up the camp just after 15.00. Had a first pit stop in St-Julien-en-Born. There was a bike shop on the side of the road so I popped in to check the tire pressure. The very nice man at the shop even pumped up the tires for me. What a service.

Then I had a proper break after 60km of the ride. Some peaches and refueling and after a comfort break I was ready to go.

In Léon I thought I would stop for a coffee. U was going so well that it wouldn’t matter. But couldn’t se any places I liked. So I went through the town and on the outskirts there was a very nice bar. Stopped, has a coffee and a coke and was back on the road in no time at all.

Cycled to Hossegor and there was a surprise. It turned out that all of the campsites around there were for mobile or motorhomes. Trying to find one that would accommodate me went to the tourist office. A very nice lady pointed me in the direction of the closest campsite.

So I was cycling back to where I came from. The first camping that she gave me was something very similar with beautiful homes but ni tents. Luckily I spotted signs on the road to a few campings.

On one of the roundabouts another check and the was a camping at about 3km. I passed by earlier. A few minutes later I found the place. There is a little shop, restaurant – closed today but it is here. Quick set up of the camp, washing and went to do some shopping. Cold beer today. Not too much choice of fresh food in the shop but I found enough to prepare the supper. Tuna a la Catalán and veggies. There is a surfing school and a swimming pool as well. I got a bracelet.

Tonight heavy rains. Tomorrow morning heavy rains. So I am staying here for couple of days. Just in case.