Limoges, Angoulême, Jonzac, Libourne, Parentis-en-Born, Seignosse, Pau, Lourdes, Tarbes, La Réole, Libourne
Equipment: bike – Marin – Lombard 1 – (2022)
Back panniers – Altura – Dryline – they are waterproof – tested. Couple of bibs, 2 cycling shirts, Chamois cream – Butt’r. One summer cycling jersey. Clothes change – one shirt and one pair of 3/4 trousers that I could use in the evening after the cycling. Waterproofs – jacket. Sunblock – SPF 30
Camping tent – MSR Hubba Hubba NX, Therm-A-Rest Prolite Plus mattress, Eris 250 Sleeping Bag by Gelert
Primus – EtaPower EF – Cooking system – here
Samsung Galaxy S10+ – fantastic navigation through more difficult moments, photos and blogging. Absolutely great! Supported by Anker PowerCore 20100 and Anker PowerCore 26800 Portable Chargers
Data recording from Garmin vivoactive 3 Music and Sigma BC 23.16 STS
Some interesting numbers – for me:
Trip distance: 1901.2 km
Ride time: 100.33 hours
Avg speed: 18.91 km/h
Max speed: 54.26 km/h
Total Altitude Ascending: 13.169 m
Night 1 and Day 1 – 18/06
Praparation
So, the new trip started. Yesterday quick trip from work to Surbiton station. Then at Woking had to change the platform a few times as the trains were all delayed. Managed to get to Portsmouth. On the way there I realised that I forgot the cable and the charger for the phone at work and I think I left my cycling gloves on the first train. So, shopping in Portsmouth. Currys and Halfords. Both open till late then waiting for the ferry. I went for one of those long sofas and set up the camp there. I think managed to have good 2-3 hours of sleep. Morning in Ouistreham. Getting off the ferry and then cycling through those very familiar places. Felt quite emotional. So much has happened, so much has changed in my life in those 4 years since my last visit here. It was my last teaching on Thursday at the college. The end of 21 years of service. It is my first trip abroad since the lockdowns as well.
In Caen got my ticket to Limoges through Paris. First train well air-conditioned and I had a relaxed and quick trip to Paris. On my way though I noticed that the ticket from Paris should have a charge for bike. Went through Paris. It was hot. Tarmac melting in places. 35°C or there about. Short trip on the bike between Saint-Lazare and Austerlitz. Quick look at the Louvre and Centre Pompidou, Seine with a few bridges and I was at Austerlitz.
Went to ticket office and managed to have a reasonable conversation in French with a few people there trying to change the ticket. 10€ lighter and very happy I had the ticket sorted.
Second train from Paris to Limoges a bit more like a sauna. I was melting this time. It turn out that my carriage had faulty air-conditioning unit. At some point changed carriage but it was more of the same.
In Limoges took the route to the campsite. First set up of the new tent went well. Then shopping. Tomorrow Sunday. Everything is closed in France. Got some solid and liquid provisions and I think I will be ready for bed when the temperature drops a bit. Nearly 21.00 and it is still about 35°C. Definitely another shower at some point. Washed my stuff from the road it was dry in less than 1 hour from dripping wet.
One of those campsites with Dutch and German people. Somehow I think I am the youngest one here. Love these places. You know they are really decent. Wine – nice Grenache Vin Biologique about 4€. Tasty tomatoes and some lovely baguette. Too hot to cook.
And relax.
All campers open and gasping for air. Not sure about the tent. Haven’t been inside yet. Third night on the low budget sleeping.
Day 2 – 19/06
Aixe-sur-Vienne – Oradour-sur-Glane – Étagnac – Chabanais – Rochechouart – Aixe-sur-Vienne
I thought I prepared and packed pretty much all I needed for this trip. First thing I realised today that I forgot the lubricant for the chain. So will be hunting for something decent tomorrow. The chain needs the lubricant.
Brought the new bike for this trip. Cycling on the Marin Lombard 1. It went really nicely today. With 100+ km has done excellent job. It is quite a bit lighter than the Genesis I have used in the last few trips.
Last night I think I got to the tent at about 23.30. Was asleep few minutes later. Woke up at 6.15 and 6.45 fell asleep again till 8.45. Slow morning. Had some fruit and a bit of baguette with chorizo. Loads of water. The temperature dropped to something like 22°C during the night so at some point I had to use the sleeping bag to cover myself a little bit.
Decided to go back to Oradeur-sur-Glane again. Got to the place but the memorial was closed today. Had a cycle around, took couple of photographs and went to the centre of the village. Had a coffee and a coke. No coffee on the campsite. Forgot to buy yesterday.
From Oradeur the road took me to Saint-Brice-sur-Vienne, then slowly to Chabanais, where I had another coffee and a coke.
Then to Rochechouart and back to the campsite in Aixe-sur-Vienne. On the campsite I was going to sort out the chain and noticed that I forgot the lubricant. Good thing I haven’t started to clean the chain yet.
Looking for a shop open on Sunday in France is a loosing game. There was a shop on the top of the hill in Aixe that sells second hand bikes. Of course went there. It turned out to be a second hand shop, selling absolutely anything and everything. There were second hand bikes but nothing else.
Came back to the camp. Shower, washing the gear after a sweaty day in the saddle. Then cooking – today it was kind of risotto mushrooms. Pretty tasty I have to say. Now a bit of chilling out and planning the route for tomorrow.
Probably going to Perigueux.
Haven’t experienced anything like it in all of my trips. Hail storm. Pellets massive. Some like a golf ball. The new tent did astonishingly well. Baptism of water for it and not forgetting the hail.
It was so sudden. The wind has come and in 20-30 seconds there was the hail coming down. I believe we were the first to be hit by the thunder I can hear and see lightings on my left. The right side looks brighter. Let’s hope it was it. I guess it was long time coming here in France. It will be cooler tomorrow.
Day 3 – 20/06
Aixe-sur-Vienne – Rochechouart – Massignac – Camping Devezeau
After the hail and rain have stopped for a moment or two I managed to have another shower and get to sleep. It was just about midnight. Rain was on and off through the night and the morning. Somehow managed to get to the loo couple of times without getting soaking wet. Woke up at 6 popped to the toilet and fell asleep again till 8.35. There was a German cyclist on the campsite. He was getting ready to start that early.
I had a very slow morning. Breakfast and get the camp down. Somehow tent managed to be ok. The roof dried really quickly when the sun came out for a few minutes.
I hit the road at 11.00. I was going to Pirégueux. Last minute change. I checked the weather forecast and it was thunderstorms for the next 3 days. Checked the weather on the west and it looked a bit better. So I set off to La Rochefoucauld.
Checked quickly, there were couple of campsites there and a shop that sold pretty much everything.
First 15 km of the day it was pretty much constant uphill. Then it got a bit easier. In Rochechouart I stopped for a coffe and a coke. Thought that in a bigger town there might be a bike shop but no luck.
So, after a quick break I was on the road again to La Rochefoucauld. The temperature was rising slowly. There was a bit of wind and not too much water on the road.
The first bit of the trip today was a constant spray of the road from the cars and the bike itself. Cycling was a bit tough as the chain had enough of not being oiled and was making some very strange noises. Only when I got to the campsite I thought I should have put some olive oil on it to get through the day. I am pretty sure that it wouldn’t do any harm and would wash off later on.
Anyhow, cycled through some beautiful woodland areas. At La Rochefoucauld I checked first for the shop that would sell everything. They had a lot in there but no cycling gear. Thankfully next door there was a Leclerc supermarche. This time I got lucky. There was a lubricant for the chain. Never used the spray one but somehow I will manage.
So the next thing was going to find the camping. There was one just for the caravans in the middle of the town and another one a few kilometres from the centre. It turned out to be a family home that was putting up friends from time to time.
With 75 km in my legs I checked for the closest campsite on the map. Another 17 km. Tried to call. No answer. Should have done the shopping in La Rochefoucauld. Didn’t think of that.
There were good reviews of the camping on Google maps so with a bit of hesitation I set off in the search of the campsite in the middle of nowhere. On the way was trying to find a shop to get something for the supper and the breakfast. I was carrying some bits with me so would have managed to eat something in the evening and then go somewhere to get bits for the breakfast.
Thank you Google maps. I found a little shop couple of km from the campsite. Had to go a bit longer but managed to get some drinks and food.
On the campsite – which was open and running. English owners. Set up the tent and was cleaning the bike at 18.00. Shower and washing done.
There are some dark clouds approaching. I better prepare the tent for another night of thunderstorms. Hopefully it won’t be as bad as the one last night.
Day 4 – 21/06 Summer solstice
Camping Devezeau – Luxé – Couloonges – Brie – Saint-Claud – Camping Devezeau
Thunderstorms again last night. The wind lasted very short time only. The tent was pretty much horizontal couple of times but survived. Then the rain and lighting came. It was like a disco lights overhead. It lasted probably half an hour. Then it was more rain and more rain. Woke up at 6.35. Quick trip to the loo and back to sleep till about 8.35. Had my breakfast and a coffee from the shop here. Then very slowly started preparing for the ride today. Lubricant on the chain. Stopped making those very strange noises that I had yesterday. Not the best lubricant probably but will do.
Got going at 11.00. First bit of the trip today I was feeling a bit awkward kind of uninspired but after Luxé this changed. The landscape was a bit more hilly and more fun to cycle through. It wasn’t a very speedy ride or anything like it. A few tougher uphills. Some nice downhills. Beautiful woodland areas, then a few vineyards. Loads of sunflowers and corn fields. Few rivers, very nice Abbey in St-Amant-de-Boixe. Then I went through Brie. One of my favourites. Wanted at least to have a coffee there but the whole town was closed preparing a big party tonight.
Summer solstice celebration.
The sun came out only in Chasseneuil-sur-Bonnieure. Stopped there in Intermarche to get some drinks and provisions for breakfast. Managed to remember to get the coffee and pepper as well this time.
Tonight burger and chips for the supper plus a pint of Leffe.
I think another night of thunderstorms is coming. And it might rain a lot tomorrow. So might stay on the camp and do some work for the college. There is a WiFi on the camp so it should be relatively easy. Will see.
So, slight change of plans tonight. Apparently the owner of the camp was very worried about me sleeping in the tent under trees in the huge electric thunderstorm last nigh. He popped out couple of times before the rain and then after the thunders have stopped. It seems he came a few more times to see if I and the tent were still standing.
So, tonight they offered me to sleep in the mobile home. Well, I took the offer after some hesitation. Tent is down. At least it will be dry if I wanted to travel tomorrow. Otherwise I will stay here for one more night and work a bit.
Day 5 – 22/06
Camping Devezeau – Angoulême – Challignac – Chevaceaux
Oh what a night. Very grateful to Sean and Erica for putting me up in a mobile home last night. The thunders started at about midnight. There was loads of water and I was very safe in the space.
Woke up at 4.45after having a bit of a nightmare. First I was in polish resistance and we were capturing German soldiers in a hotel. That could be the cheese I ate last night. Then the heroic part stopped and there was a man looking at me and his face was appearing and disappearing in a flashlight. It was the second part of thunderstorm. Soon after the heavens opened and we had more hail. Not as large as the first time but on the roof of the mobile home it was quite effective. The rain didn’t stop till 9.00. I didn’t know what to do but gathered my stuff had a breakfast, said goodbye to Sean and Erica and set off for the road at 11.35.
For some reason I chose to come to Checanceaux today. Weather forecast looked a bit more kind. Last night in the cabin I didn’t prepare the route for today so the navigation was a bit tricky.
Google was sending me through some country roads that only a tractor would get through after the rain. Good thing I carry the paper map with me so I could slowly gain my bearings. The rain stopped maybe after 15 minutes of cycling. It got sunnier and sunnier by the moment.
I was going up quite a bit today. Only when I saw the elevation level on the Garmin I realised how tough it was today.
I don’t do it very often but today I decided to go through the town centre. It was actually a very pleasant experience. Okay, Angoulême might not be the largest town but it was very nice to see students around the university and climb to the church on the top of town and then cycle away to La Couronne. From Angoulême it was an uphill battle most of the time.
I started going through the big vineyards. The route seemed to be fairly straightforward along the N10. At some point I made a wrong turn and ended up cycling on the motorway. Even there there were only couple of track drivers that hooted at me. Suddenly I saw an underpass on my right. Stopped, put the panniers to the other side of the barrier, then the bike, then myself. A shortcut through field and I was back in the safety. A bit of a panic moment but nothing too serious.
Then I went through the countryside and loads of vineyards. Around vineyards there are a lot of slopes. The ride was enjoyable but tough. Loads of steep uphills and it was getting quite warm. I think the steepest was to get to Vignoles.
From there u decided to come back to N10. The thing is that there are old roads along the motorway and can be rather peaceful. The navigation can be a bit tricky going under and over the motorway. This is how I ended up on the actual motorway.
This time I managed to force Google to take me to Checanceaux in the shortest way.
Ended up with 100km anyway. The campsite is very small. No staff around. Just pitch and be. Maybe because it is June. Very pleasant evening. Shower, washing, cooking. This time sausage from Toulouse, tomatoes and radishes. Had to work a bit. So checked the blogs. Now last admin for the day and then chill out.
Just got the notification that thunderstorms are expected here at about 9AM. Ha, ha, ha.
It looks like the next week will be a bit brighter.
Day 6 – 23/06
Chevanceaux – Jonzac – Montendre -Saint-Savin – Clérac – Chevanceaux
No thunderstorms last night. No rain last night. It was a beautiful sky full of stars and there were the bats in the evening as well. Happy, happy.
Woke up just after 8.00. There was a thunderstorm warning for 15.00 today so I decided to go early. Well, breakfast, coffee, shower and so on. But I was cycling at about 10.00.
Although today I was on the Route de Vignobles, there were only a few steeper hills. So it was a fairly flat ride today.
Set off for Jonzac. I was surprised how easy it was to get there. I was kind of flying. In Jonzac I was going to stop for a coffee but couldn’t find any open bar. So next town it was. In Montendre there was a street market and a tabac open.
Would have gotten some nice cheese and fruit from the market but no way of carrying the shopping for long kilometres. So I just had a coffee and a coke.
When cycling through these beautiful places here, I have the feeling of how privileged I am to have been able to do it for so many years.
Today there were the smells of the plants next to the road, the noises of birds singing, a few birds of prey on the route, pines, mushrooms, cows, horses and goats. Nearly had a heart attack at some point when the goat screamed as I was passing by.
Last few kilometres I did on a cycle path that I found completely by chance.
In Checanceaux I got to the campsite just before 15.00. Went to the shop and on the way back the thunderstorm started. Just managed to get to the campsite and hide in the shower room. It lasted probably 1 hour. 30 minutes later there was a sun shining over my head.
Tomorrow going to revisit the campsite next to Bordeaux. Been there 4 years ago. Good spot to wait off the rainy weekend.
Tomatoes, avocado and nice sausages tonight.
Raining in the morning tomorrow so will see how I get out of here.
Was by myself on the camp. One more guy has just arrived so I will have some company.
Day 7 – 24/06
Chevanceaux – Libourne – Créon – Camping Bell Air
Last night it was a bit quieter on the campsite. No thunderstorms, no rain through the night. The rain was predicted for the whole day today. Woke up at 6.00. Everything was dry and no signs of rain. I was considering get going at that point but felt that I needed a few more minutes of sleep. At 7.30 the rain started and that was it. Managed to get the camp down. Moved everything to the shower area and prepared slowly waiting for the rain to calm down a bit.
As I was moving the bike checked the bottom bracket. It felt very wobbly. Closest bike shop was in Libourne. Okay, new challenge.
Without pushing too much on the pedals I got going at about 9.00. Very slow and careful. A few minutes into the cycling the bike felt ok again. Checked – no movement at all. Still worth a try going to the shop. Got to the bike shop at 13.20 it was re-opening at 14.00. Had some time to have a bite to eat.
In the shop the mechanic tightened a bit those screws on pedals. He couldn’t find anything wrong with the bike. Mystery.
Although he said that it was okay, I think that the bike felt healthier after he adjusted the bits.
Got to the campsite before 16.00. Set up the camp and went back to Creon to get the food.
All day the rain was on and off. Moments of comfort and then downpour. Then sun coming up and making it very muggy. Sweated buckets. Got wet a lot from the rain. In the bike shop one of the customers started chatting with me. In English. I think he felt sorry for the weather I was hitting this week. I believe, he told me that somewhere close, the hail was the size of the tennis balls.
Got some roast chicken and veg for the supper. Still drinking only rose this trip. Couldn’t find any toilet paper in Carrefour. Found some on the campsite but the situation can be an emergency.
Day 8 – 25/06
Créon – Cadillac – Langon – La Réole – Langon – Langoiran – Créon
Woke up at 7.35. Still dry around. Started to prepare a coffee and just after the water boiled it started to rain. It was a constant downpour from 8.00 till 14.30 or so.
I stayed in the tent. Not easy for me as I like moving around. After couple of hours of doing nothing I decided to do some assessments for the course at the college. Surprisingly it was quite rewarding to go through the blogs. Read through and make final comments. I got into the rhythm and finished with the dry weather at about 14.45. Quick shower and I was off to get to know the area. Well, I have been here before but the route I chose today was amazing.
A very quick trip all around. I have done 100km in less than 4 hours. Very happy. Somehow it just worked today.
Managed to get to Aldi just before the closing time. I think I got what I need for Sunday as well. So no shopping required tomorrow.
On the other hand the toilet paper issue has been resolved as well. On the way back from La Réole I went to Lidl and they had exactly what I needed.
Shower, washing, cooking very quickly. No wine tonight. I had some Mojito from Aldi. Let’s see what tomorrow brings.
Day 9 – 26/06 Wet Wet Wet
Créon – Sauveterre-de-Guyenne – Vélines – Créon
It was going to be a dry Sunday.
Woke up at 7.35. Shower and quick look at the sky. No, this is not going to be dry. Had my breakfast and a coffee waiting for some of the things to dry a bit. By 11.00 I knew there will be a rain coming.
Set off towards Lorient but couple of kilometres into the route I changed my mind. Back through the campsite to pick up the waterproof jacket. It turned out that I forgot to close the tent. Sometimes the destiny just works. It would have been a major problem.
On the route it started raining about 12.00 and it hasn’t stopped pretty much all day till 17.30 when I was arriving to the campsite.
I got very wet riding today.
I had a very nice route to go through. A bit tricky with the rain trying to keep safe on the wet road. Stopped for a coffee and a coke in Sauveterre-de-Guyenne. A nice place and a nice coffee. I was still relatively dry by that stage. But soon after I left, it was just constant rain. Couldn’t hide anywhere. Didn’t even bother to put the waterproof jacket. It wouldn’t have made any difference.
At some point I asked Google to drive me for a bit but the cycling routes are really in need of revising. Again I was directed through the camp roads. The tiniest and very muddy. So, I had to take maps out. Everything was getting soaking wet.
But as they say where is the will there is the way. Slowly I managed to regain my bearings and cycled safely to the campsite.
Washing and hanging out all the wet gear. A few moments of sun. Then overcast again. At least the forecast is dry overnight and sunny tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
Sunday, so all shops closed. Stopped in an open Carrefour and got some sweets for the road. Then there was nothing open at all, apart from couple of bars and restaurants.
Cooked a strange meal today. Had some mushrooms, pepper, tomatoes ans half an onion. It was really tasty.
Let’s see what tomorrow brings.
Day 10 -27/06
Créon – Hostens – Pissos – Parentis-en-Born
Last evening was quite a decent weather but at around 1.00 the rain started again. It lasted maybe 30 minutes but the tent was going to be a bit of a problem in the morning to pack it up.
Woke up again at 4.30. Toilet, and to my surprise I was seeing stars.
Woke up again at 7.30 and started packing slowly. First, all of the relatively dry clothes and mattress and the sleeping bag. Emptied the tent and moved to a sunny spot.
Then shower and putting on still humid pants, shirt and the very wet sandals.
Breakfast with coffee and whatever was left in my food bag. Set off at about 9.45. After couple of kilometres I noticed that I didn’t have my gloves on. Must have fallen somewhere when I was packing the tent and setting up the bike.
Back to the camp. Found the gloves fallen in the hedge where the bike was. Back on the road again at 10.00. The ride today was relatively easy, so I just pushed something between 27 and 30 km/h. Navigation was straight forward. Got to Hostens a bit of the rain came. Just spitting. Nothing like yesterday. It lasted till Pissos. Stopped twice on the route 1st at km 44 and second at 84.
Found couple of nice cycle paths one between Moustey and Pissos and the second between Ychoux and Parentis-en-Born. Was at the camp at 15.00. Set up the tent and went back to the town for some shopping. Back at the camp, washed what needed to be cleaned. Dried what needed to be dry. Now got only the most resent washing to get to dry. But the sky is blue and all is coming through nicely.
Today the chef has prepared pork chops and a tasty salad. Now chilling out and plotting the new adventure. Finally ‘Le ciel est dégagé’.
Loads of very tiny ants on the campsite. Well, will live through.
À bientôt.
I love cycling through the Les Landes. It always puts goosebumps on my skin. This time it wasn’t the omnipresent smell of pine. It was just the realisation of the vastness of the place. I had the cycads, I had the heather, and towards Parentis-en-Born even some pine smell as the temperature was rising. It is flat, might be boring but I love the region since the first time I came here on the route to Santiago de Compostela. I think I was totally bewildered by the space that time and this is still lasting. Today, I cycled for many hours through totally the empty roads. Nobody else but me, the road and the bike.
Day 11 – 28/06
Parentis-en-Born – Biscarrosse – Biscarrosse-Plage – Sanguinet – Parentis-en-Born
Dry night. Hurray.
As there are so many cycle paths around here I decided to abandon the road and join the cycling fraternity on the paths.
Woke up at 7.30. Early shower and by 9.00 I was waiting for the fresh baguette and a croissant. They were coming straight from the oven. Coffee with croissant and then a bit of baguette with Comte cheese and tomato.
I was out cycling before 10.00. After 5km I stopped to take a photo and realised that I left the phone charging in the washroom.
Well, back to the campsite. Picked up the phone, had a bit of water and set off again. I was heading in the direction of Biscarosse. Then the road would tell.
The first bit of the path was fairly flat and straightforward. I was enjoying the sunny day and saying ‘Bon jour’ to many cyclists heading towards Parentis-en-Born. Some probably heading to Santiago de Compostela as we are here on the Route Littoral. I came through these places 12 years ago. I remember I met a nurse from Spain, Raquel, it was a few kilometres before Parentis-en-Born. She was cycling in the opposite direction. We got chatting and then we spent a few kilometres riding together.
Anyhow, back to the cycling paths that appear and disappear misteriously. That was one issue. Finding them. Somehow when the path goes through a village you are supposed to be a clairvoyant and get to them as by magic. It was fine with me today as I have decided to go easy.
In Biscarosse I managed to find the cycle path to the lake and the ocean. Now, that was fun. Going through the dunes. Very topsy-turvy route and couple of uphills that would have been a bit of a challenge if I was going with the panniers. Got to Biscarosse plage, failed miserably to find the route to Arcachon. So I stepped on the pedals and joined the road to Sanguinet. There had the usual, coffee and a coke, topped up the water and headed back to the campsite.
Shorter cycling day today. I bet my legs and my bottom are grateful.
Early shopping, shower, washing all done. So, I decided to go to the lake by the camp. Got to the little beach, got my feet wet and when back to the camp. Beach holidays and definitely not for me.
Supper time soon. Tomorrow heading to the south. The road will tell.
Day 12 – 29/06
Parentis-en-Born – Mimizan – Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains – Hossegor – Camping Les Chevreuils
Woke up at 8.00 this morning. Quick shower so the towel would have a chance to dry a bit. Then packing for the trip.
Left the tent to dry for 1 hour as I was going through the other bits. Mattress and sleeping bag and so on.
At 9.00 the baguette was ready and the croissant as well. As I set up for the breakfast the man with a big saw came and started pruning the bushes around me. Only a few days left before the high season starts here. Another couple of days and the roads will be crazy with motorhomes.
Managed to get out of the camp by 10.15. I was going to try the cycle paths today as well. The first one to start with took me around the field. So I turned around and went onto the roads. Through the day I managed to find quite a few cycling paths along the main road and then when the paths were going through the town or a village I was taking the road straight through.
I checked on the Google maps that there were many campsites around Hossegor so I was heading there.
The weather was very pleasant for cycling. Not too hot. A bit of a breeze that was a bit stronger for moments but nothing to stop the joyful experience of cycling.
Kilometers were passing and I thought that with a good luck l might be able to set up the camp just after 15.00. Had a first pit stop in St-Julien-en-Born. There was a bike shop on the side of the road so I popped in to check the tire pressure. The very nice man at the shop even pumped up the tires for me. What a service.
Then I had a proper break after 60km of the ride. Some peaches and refueling and after a comfort break I was ready to go.
In Léon I thought I would stop for a coffee. U was going so well that it wouldn’t matter. But couldn’t se any places I liked. So I went through the town and on the outskirts there was a very nice bar. Stopped, has a coffee and a coke and was back on the road in no time at all.
Cycled to Hossegor and there was a surprise. It turned out that all of the campsites around there were for mobile or motorhomes. Trying to find one that would accommodate me went to the tourist office. A very nice lady pointed me in the direction of the closest campsite.
So I was cycling back to where I came from. The first camping that she gave me was something very similar with beautiful homes but ni tents. Luckily I spotted signs on the road to a few campings.
On one of the roundabouts another check and the was a camping at about 3km. I passed by earlier. A few minutes later I found the place. There is a little shop, restaurant – closed today but it is here.
Quick set up of the camp, washing and went to do some shopping. Cold beer today. Not too much choice of fresh food in the shop but I found enough to prepare the supper. Tuna a la Catalán and veggies. There is a surfing school and a swimming pool as well. I got a bracelet.
Tonight heavy rains. Tomorrow morning heavy rains. So I am staying here for couple of days. Just in case.
Day 13 – 30/06
The rain started at 21.00 last night and hasn’t stopped yet. It was on and off all day.
Woke up at 8.00. everything around wet and raining. I had to do some assessments for the college so started straight away and at 9.00 when the rain stopped for a moment I went to get a croissant from the shop and then went to the reception and continued with work. The nice lady from the reception gave me the internet pass free so I had a way of going through the Word documents. The mobile reception here is pretty bad so it was loads of waiting for the blog and the assessment files to open in the tent.
Finished work at about 12.00. Then started planning the route for tomorrow. And finally started thinking of the return route back to UK.
I spent couple of hours searching different towns and connection either to Caen or Calais. There are less and less trains here that will take the unfolded bike on. Finally got one that would.
So booked the train. Checked for the hotel for last night. It is early start for me so better to be close to the station.
At about 16.00 the rain stopped and the sky was pretty blue. Could see the clouds on the horizon. Dried a bit of the washing and around 17.00 decided to go to visit the ocean. Quite a dramatic skies. Stayed there for a moment and decided to go back. As I started cycling back the rain started again. It was a short, light shower. It was pretty much gone when I got to the campsite.
Drying things again. Quick shower. Supper and the rain came back. Hopefully this was the last bit of it. It is supposed to be nice and sunny day tomorrow. And I have to finish drying my stuff.
On the other hand my old flip-flops have become a bit of a liability. It was more like skating than walking on wet floors. I have been looking for a pair for a few days now and lo and behold I found a new pair in the little shop by the camp. The old ones have been decommissioned now after 12 years of faithful service.
Day 14 – 1/07
Camping Les Chevreuils – Peyrehorade – Navarrenx
The day started excellent. It was dry, sun was out. Had a quick shower and off to the shop for the croissant and the pain au chocolat. Coffee, packing and charging the mobile and the GPS for the day.
Set off and ohh noooo! The bottom bracket finally decided to play up properly. Went very slowly first 10km. Trying to see if it would sort itself out like before. But this time it was serious and I could feel the movement in the pedals. Then the horrible noise started. Got to Tosse and after a turn stopped for the reality check.
Looking for the closest bike shop near me. It was at about 100 meters from where I was standing. The guys in the shop very keen to help. The mechanic tightened up the pedal cranks. He thought that would be it. Went out and noooo! The cracking noise was still there. Went back to the shop and somehow managed to convince the mechanic that the bike is new and probably just needs tightened the bottom bracket. Okay. 10 minutes or so later and happily spent 10€ I went on the bike again. Nice and smooth. Went back to the shop thanked the guys again and again. A bit gingerly at first, I started stepping up on the pedals. All good. Had a bit of a uphill that tested my legs and the bike. All okay still. At km 70 there was a stinker of the uphill. All good. I think I managed to save the bottom bracket.
On the other hand, I started moving towards the Pyrenees. Maybe 30km into the route there was considerable change in the air. Then kiwi farms started. Then I saw small hills. Then I saw big mountains. Different herbs loads of oak trees. Amazing adventure. And with the bike that was running healthy. Kind of booked a camping in Navarrenx. Very nice route. Quick ride. I was setting up the camp at 15.30 after checking in at the office. Free WiFi, beautiful pitch, toilets with toilet paper. Luxury and all this for 14€. Get in.
Navarrenx – a beautiful village, medieval fortification. So pleased I decided to stay here for the night.
Tomorrow more hills, can be quite steep. Will see. Washing done, sun drying my stuff. Shopping done.
I get so lucky.
A few days ago I forgot to put the Sunblock on my right arm. Now it started loking like a snake
Day 15 – 2/07
Navarrenx – Mourenx – Pau – Soumoulou – Lourdes
Set up the alarm for 7.00 this morning. Thought that if I am going into the Pyrenees I might need a bit more of time on the road.
Quick shower, breakfast, tried to dry the tent as much as I could. Charged the phone and the GPS before leaving. I think I was out on the road at 9.10.
A bit gingerly at first. Trying still the bottom bracket. All good.
First 15km it was a good amount of going up and then twisty and turny roads on the descent. It was till I arrived in Mourenx.
From Mourenx, through Pau, the route was just a slow slope up. Not steep at all, but constant up. Only about 5km from Lourdes that there were a few up and down the hill.
To Soumoulou I had the Pyrenees on the right hand side getting slowly closer and closer. Then after Soumoulou I turned towards the mountains.
As I was getting closer and could see the majestic look of the Pyrenees, I had a few moments of goosebumps.
Arrived at the campsite at 14.30. The office was closed so I spent some time chatting with a fellow cyclist. Irish guy, Sean, that lived pretty much all over the world. Worked as a maths teacher in the UK, then decided to become a priest, then that didn’t work so he spent some time working as a carer. Very similar live to mine.
He started his trip in Roscoff. It took him 11 days to get to Lourdes.
On the road there was no respite from the sun. Just a few minutes far in between that there was a little cloud. In Lourdes it is scorching hot. Had couple of showers already. Will have another one before the bed.
Went to the sanctuary on my way to the supermarket. Loads of people around the town. Tomorrow shop open in the morning so I got stuff for tonight and will top up tomorrow.
Lourdes town centre very hilly and very confusing for the traffic. Loads of single direction roads, but somehow it worked. Had to have the phone in my hand as in the pouch it was overheating in couple of minutes.
Got back. Quick shower, prepared the supper and now chilling out in the sunny shade.
Day 16 – 3/07
Lourdes – Saint-Créac – Bagnères-de-Bigorre – Pouzac – Tarbes – Lourdes
Another dry night. Bats were here last night. Clicking and whistling. Love watching them fly. The whole spectacle last a few minutes only.
Woke up at around 7.00 this morning. Quick shower, then breakfast. Got ready for the road. First, went to the Carrefour to top up groceries for tonight and tomorrow morning. Trip back to the campsite and then I went into the hills.
At first, there was a steeper hill, then when I got into the mountains I hit a very steady and pleasant uphill that lasted for good few kilometres – about 6-7%. There were loads of cyclists on the road that I have chosen for this morning.
And suddenly there was a cycling race on the route coming from the opposite direction. Some of the guys were really going fast on the downhill. I had couple of mates the few first kilometres and we had to stop to let the race through. There were motorbikes, cars, security cars, loads of people involved directing the traffic as the road for the race wasn’t closet. There was a huge amount of competitors in the race. I saw a number 1632.
At some point when the views became absolutely amazing I lost my mates as I stopped to take some photos. Stopped a few times because the scenery was breathtaking. Especially from the top of the mountain. I believe it was about 700 meters above the sea level.
Then in Neuilh I saw on the map that there was a shortcut to Pouzac. Incredible downhill on the country road. I don’t know what could go up that. I lost probably half of my brake pads trying to stay on the bike. At some point I was thinking of walking the bike downhill. Thankfully it was only a few hundred metres and then I hit a proper road.
In Pouzac I thought of getting a coffee but couldn’t find any tabac open. But there was another town just down the road Bagnères-de-Bigorre. There was a tabac there so I had my usual coffee and a coke. Then set off for Tarbes. Very quick ride on the D8. Went to the town centre, everything very modern.
From there it was getting back to Lourdes. Went with Google maps at first but then Google was sending me onto the very busy N11. I decided to go inland again. Beautiful little villages at foothills of the Pyrenees. Had couple of steep uphills there and the last bit of the road to Lourdes was like gruyère. Somehow I didn’t break anything on the bike or myself.
Back to the campsite really early today. I had the washing done by 15.15. Now chilling out. Ravioli for supper today.
Tomorrow start heading north for the last few days of the trip. There was a shower and some thunderstorms this morning on the forecast but now it has cleared. Hopefully it will stay dry.
There are a few clouds in the sky so it is a bit cooler today.
So the rain came at 17.30. It is 21.00 and no signs of it letting go. It is just relentless.
Day 17 – 4/07
Woke up at 4.30 this morning and couldn’t get back to sleep. So at 6.00 as the tent was pretty dry I went to the shower and when I came back the first drops were falling. Quickly moved the whole camp to the area with a roof and then calmly and slowly packed everything. The rain stopped so I had time to prepare a coffee as well.
Diet of fruit and cheese this morning. The leftovers. Had couple of peaches and couple of tomatoes and the remaining cheese.
Have planned the route across the country. So I knew there will be hills. And I had 5, 6, 7 or 8 of them today. All 7% and over.
Left the campsite in Lourdes at 8.15. it was quite chilly and there were signs of rain till kilometer 50. In some places it looked like it was raining a few moments ago. The first hill was to Limendous, then the one to Bernadets, then the one to Thèze and there were a few more but I stopped counting them.
At Thèze the sun came out from time to time and it was a bit warmer on the road.
The D944 turned out to be a great road. On the map it looks boring and straightforward but there were a few surprises with beautiful villages and up and down hill challenges.
Got to St-Sever by 13.30 only to be notified by a member of staff that the office was opening at 16.00. Okay, let’s do the shopping and then I might get to the shower and do the washing as well. If I can get inside the camp.
Went to Intermarche and back, the office was open. The very nice lady gave me even the power adapter so I can charge everything on my pitch. No extra cost. The kids still at the school so camps are relatively empty. Saying that, last night in Lourdes it got pretty busy. And here now there are more and more people arriving.
Got route planned for tomorrow. Too much cycling on the busy roads but the one I am looking at runs parallel to the motorway so can be decent. Will see. Pork chop, beetroot and avocado salad for supper.
Overcast here but no signs of rain yet. It looks like it might be dry tomorrow morning as well.
Day 18 – 5/07
Today it was a transition day for me. Riding from sweet potato and corn country back to vineyards. Getting closer to the departure point of the trip.
Woke up at 7.20. Quick shower, tent was pretty dry so I could start packing very early. Took my time. Slowly, enjoying the sunny morning.
I was out of the campsite at 9.20. I knew that the first bit of the route will be tricky on busy road. To my surprise I had a massive hard shoulder to myself. It was a proper cycle paths along the road. I got really quickly to Mont-de-Marsan and from there I took the route to Roquefort. The first 10 kilometres on the D932 were a bit scary. Loads of traffic to get to the motorway. After the 10km it was really nice to cycle on that road. Very little traffic and beautiful scenery of the Lands. Before Roquefort I took the wrong turn and cycled passing by the town without entering it. Shame, but with the kilometres I was going to have ahead I didn’t dare to go back.
Google maps was sending me all over the place. So I stuck with my map and went ahead. After passing through Captieux I decided to take the N524. Could have been another busy stretch but just a few moments on the road I found a cycle path to Bazas. Google didn’t even know that it was there. I checked couple of times and on Google maps I was in the middle of nowhere.
By the time I got to Bazas I had already 97km done. My destination was La Rèole. Again Google was sending me around the blocks. Again with the maps I found nice straight route from Bazas to La Rèole.
Again on this route I realised how much I enjoy going up and down the hills. The first 97km apart from a short steeper moment just on the outskirts of St-Sever was pretty much flat. Well. It was going up very slightly and I had a head wind as well. My legs couldn’t decide what to do so I was between gears all the time. Don’t want to kill my legs by making them push too hard or just kill them with number of strokes per minute.
Out of Bazas I was a happy bunny. Going up the hill was slow and the sun was relentless but I got to the top and then for the first time today I had a moment of freewheeling. I could stand on pedals and my bottom was very grateful for the moment of respite. Then there was the second uphill to Auros. Good 2-3km kilometres of ride up and up. In Auros I even took the picture of the name of the town to remind myself of the road in the future.
From there it was a nice up and down road to La Rèole. Found the campsite, washed my gear as the very strong sun was out. Set up the tent and I was up to do some shopping. As I went into the town I realised how beautiful it is. Tiny old roads with old houses. Proper medieval place. Will have to read up a bit tonight about the history of the place.
Sausages and salad for supper. By the way, my legs were black from the road today. I had to shampoo them twice to get rid of the muck.
Day 19 – 6/07
La Réole – Damazan – St-Léon – Casteljaloux – La Réole
Getting closer to the end of the trip.
Today I woke up at 7.00. The sun was out and hitting the tent. I had a shower, prepared a coffee and had some fruit and a tomato for breakfast. Then when I was getting ready for the ride the man with croissant came so I had a croissant and a pain au chocolat with the coffee.
Set off early as it was going to be hot in the afternoon. I was on the road just after 8.30.
Just around the camping there was a cycling path along the canal. The path was tarmac but very uneven. I was going through there and hoping that it will improve at some point. It didn’t. Yesterday I had a simple path that was just well looked after. Kind of pressed sand and cement or something like this. Like those in Richmond or Bushy Park. Today, different story. It made me think as well why these canals have a path next to them. I thought that maybe they used horses to pull barges along the canal. And it is true. Before the engine it was a horse, donkey, mule or even cattle that pulled barges along the waterways.
There were a lot of cyclists going both ways with panniers. It means that the route is rather popular.
After 20 km of a boneshaker I decided to rejoin the road. Found a nice route to Damazan. Farm after farm. There was wheat, corn, large sunflowers small sunflowers, vineyards, walnut trees and something that I didn’t know, hazelnut trees. Loads of nurseries.
From Damazan I took the country road through St-Léon to Casteljaloux. There was a bit of work on this one but after the canal experience it was a joy. In Casteljaloux I decided to go onto the main road to get to Grignols. Had my first coffee and a coke in Damazan.
In Grignols I took the route through Mitton and Aillas. There was a big uphill just there. Maybe 3 km. Then it was pretty much downhill to La Réole.
Got back to the campsite at 14.30, so before the hit of the afternoon after a quick shower I went to do some shopping and then popped in to the old town. It was rather nice walking through the town in the shade of those old buildings.
Back to the camp. Another shower. Washing. Supper. Now chill.
Day 20 7/07
La Réole – Ambarès-et-Lagrave- Libourne
Last day of cycling today. Tomorrow getting back home.
Woke up at 7.30. Sun was up and it was getting rather warm. Quick shower and then packing of the gear. Fortunately there was no condensation on the tent so all nice and dry went into paniers.
Had my coffee with the rest of the baguette from last night and then 1 croissant.
Ready for the road I set off around 9.30. First, I was going to have a short ride but as the day progressed I went for more and more.
First part through vineyards to St-Sulpice-en-Pommiers and then to St-Brice was very hard. Loads of steep uphills and didn’t seem like there were too many downhills. It was the best part of the 20km.
Then I took the D671 direction to Créon and went further to Salleboeuf and to St-Sulpice-et-Cameyrac. Then to Ambarés-et-Lagrave. There I thought the navigation will be simple to get through the bridge and get back to Libourne. I got bitten there by the sun and overhitting phone. So I turned around and went back where I came from and followed the road to Libourne. Here found the hotel okay but the reception is closed. Opens at 16.00. Few minutes of wait so catching up on the blog.
The hotel is really good. Very close to the station so just a short ride tomorrow morning. Had a burger and chips tonight. I was coming to my mind every day so finally I got one today. It is a scorcher out there today. There is an air-conditioner in the room so enjoying a bit of civilization. Glad I will be going through Paris relatively early tomorrow. Watching Poirot in French. Not getting much but it is fun.
Day 21 – 8/07 Getting back
I went to bed a bit earlier last night. Probably fallen asleep at 21.30. Woke up at 1.30 and kind of was awake till 5.00 when the alarm went off. Shower, packing last bits and preparing all the gear for easier transitions between trains and the ferry. Was out of the hotel at 5.25. 200 meters ride to train station and waiting for the back journey to start.
First train, nearly level between train and the platform, no nasty steps, little carriage next to the bike, just another cyclist there. Had a little nap between Poitiers and Paris.
Then it was the always unique experience of cycling between train stations in Paris. This time it was between Gare Montparnasse and Gare Saint-Lazare.
Apart from one hairy moment when I went kind of London style to turn left and I was in-between the bikers, gendarmerie and loads of cars. Managed somehow to get to the right side of the road and then I followed the cyclists. It was 8.30 so it was busy. Nice weather though for cycling. About 15°C. Maybe 30 minutes ride through the Place de la Concorde this time. On the way in it was ride through the Louvre.
The first train wasn’t too busy at all.
Now on the second train to Caen. Loads of kids starting the holidays. Proper busy. No empty seats on the train. Loads of different groups, kind of scout like, let the summer holidays start in France. It was always my experience here. Busy trains, busy campsites and so on. This time, maybe I got a bit wetter than usual, but the whole experience was rather relaxing. Pretty much no worries at all about the camping. Apart from Hossegor but that was my fault. I should have researched better those camping places there. Still it was only 10km extra to a great campsite.
Have to remember: first Friday of July holiday madness starts here.
Because of the teaching I was never able to come here earlier. Great. Even though I had to ask my colleagues to cover last 2 sessions and spent couple of days going through blogs and assessments, it was worth it.
Next getting to the ferry.
So the second part of the trip today was very straightforward. Got to the path by the canal in Caen. Stopped to get a sandwich and some water in Lidl. Then found nice spot with benches and tables in the shade and enjoyed the lunch. Then to the ferry. The customs were open so I got through. Had a coffee and another coffee waiting for the people to let us through to the next point. There standing for about 1 hour but in the shady motorbike/cycle kind of shed. Then onto the ferry. Had my fish and chips. Now loads of time to kill till we arrive in Portsmouth.
In the port waiting for the ferry met couple of cyclists that were coming from a short trip around France. About 5 days. We got chatting a bit and then after the crossing I cycled with them to the station and then we came together on the train. They were from Liphook so shorter trip for them. I didn’t realise how much and how many people are out at night and totally out of it.
I had a ticket to Waterloo and then ride to Paddington and finally catching the quick train from there to Southall. As I was checking the route of the train I noticed that the train was going through Surbiton. I got out and cycled back home. Extra few kilometres of night cycling but I was home one hour earlier. All unpacked, stuff airing. Tomorrow big washing day.
And this is the end of this adventure. Tired, feel it now. But would jump on the bike to do it again.
Cycling Adventures 